27/02/18

On the road again oh yes, we’re on the road again, but full of excitement as we are off to South Luangwa for Safari. Yabadabadoo.

We have had an excellent stay in Lilongwe with Mike being a great host. Simple fair and good wine makes a splendid evening. Oh, and great internet 😊. Before we left Mike had arranged our Safari, camping accommodation and offered to buy Betsy off me, if or when we arrive in Cape Town. I may give this last offer some serious consideration.

The city of Lilongwe is very civilised, and Martin bought a burger from Steers for his second breakfast before we headed for the border. Can’t turn down a golden opportunity.

On route we saw many crops being grown, here’s one. Which crop is this? Answers on a post card please. 2^nd clue at end of post.

The border was the usual slightly chaotic scene full of peddlers and other assorted folk, however all in all we did better than we anticipated back in the UK. Apparently according to Martin, the reason I find the borders quite stressful is that I am too polite to the locals selling their currency etc. Probably.

Without boring you too much about the roads, they started out very well until we turned off the main highway to the National Park (some 2 hours’ drive) and they went down hill from there. But not too bad for Betsy hahahaha. We are also informed that some of the roads we had planned in the future on our trip are closed or impassable due to the wet season. We will have a rethink when we get to Livingston.

On arrival at Croc Valley, ominous name I know, we were staggered to see the level of accommodation we had secured, for only £250 for 2 nights accommodation, full board, game drives and park fees included. Well done Mike and so pleased we didn’t blow 1000 bucks for 2 ½ hours in the Ngorongoro.

After a hearty meal and a night time drive in the park, we settled into a nice Merlot before bed. We did have one visitor just give us a reminder of where we are, a large bull elephant walking past the pool. Actually quite amazing.

Below is a clue on the crop shown above. Pretty easy actually. Night all.

26/02/18

Heading off today, so a relatively early start.

I know that you have seen the neighbours washing clothes in the lake but I just realised today that it is also their bathroom. Ummm not sure how I feel about that.

As we went to pack Betsy the first thing we saw was a dead dog lying just behind the truck. I decided not to take another photo as it didn’t seem necessary, but it was another reminder of how cheap all life can be in Africa.

We also noted that one of the wheels was very low on air and that another puncture repair was on the cards. Easy here, so far, so a quick pit stop to where some guys are sitting next to old tyres, and hey presto wheel off hole drilled and plugged. We believe it will last but let’s wait and see.

The journey also saw us travel past a rubber plantation for those who are interested. Not sure how many of you are, but hey ho.

As we headed South the roads worsened as did the bridges, we also had one of the windscreen wipers disintegrating in front of us. This is Africa so no worries.

The next moment we hit a large pot hole and the lid over the storage flipped up as we had broken one of the hinges. Again, no worries. Martin did his heroics and temporarily fixed it until we reach Lilongwe. Tony thank you for the duck tape it did us proud.

The next obstacle was the rain. I’ve driven all over the world but have never experienced rain like this. Martin suggested we pull over and I duly agreed. As with everything here it was a passing moment.

On arrival in Lilongwe we spotted a motor repair centre, duly pulled in and bobs your uncle fannys' your aunt and all sorted. Even better no charge.

We have been given fantastic Safari advice, so we are off to South Luangwa National Park in Zambia for 2 nights (possibly 3) and have been promised the big 5. I didn’t think Martin would get to see a leopard but apparently, he will. Happy days.

Our Airbnb tonight is fabulous, great wine, good accommodation and nice food. Bonus is the owner runs Safaris so has sorted the Safari booking for us.

Although this has been one of our most challenging days, it hasn’t been that difficult really, especially if you don’t panic. So looking forward to tomorrow.

Night night campers  

PS. There are more photos than usual but that is because we have good internet connection tonight :-)

25/02/18

25/02/18

OK, what about this for an early morning view from our room. Sunrise over lake Malawi. Obviously I woke up very early.

Feeling suitably refreshed we decided that being our last day it was just going to be a quiet one. The idea of feeding a fish eagle seemed less appealing than previously thought, as did the log and cliff jumping.

Instead we headed to a lovely little café where I taught Martin to play backgammon and sipped delicious juices. Scarily he seems to have picked up the game quicker than I was hoping for.

We have had our clothes washed but I hope not in the way our neighbours do it. We paid for wash and Iron. Martin and I both agreed that we have never actually had any of our T shirts ironed before.

The afternoon was occupied by the big Chelsea Man U game, watched at a local restaurant where at least you could see and hear the game. Not sure why I bothered, as we were robbed by a wrong offside decision. Martin though, who professes to support Utd seems as pleased that they won as if he was drinking a cup of cold tea.

We have decided not to watch the Caribou cup final, but Dixon, our quasi hotel manager was rushing down to the village to watch his team. I suppose in accordance with keeping on his good side, Come On the Arsenal.

24/02/18

I awoke early to the sound of crashing waves, lightening and high winds. Wonderful. Lake Malawi in anger. It was soon to pass though and tranquillity resumed.

It was wonderful to be so relaxed knowing that we were just going to chill out and of course, being the English sporting fans that we are, going to watch the internationals this afternoon in a beach side bar. I’ve read that there is another cold snap in the UK which I must admit has brought a huge grin on both Martins and my face as we sit here with shorts and T shirts. Unlucky!!!!!  I think I have a feeling of what Dan O’Grady must feel like when he looks at the UK weather from sunny Aus.

Internet is a problem here as is the electrical power with constant power shortages. It would almost be better if we knew there was none rather than continuously checking if there is power to charge our appliances or a signal on our phones. I know I know a first world problem.

Our accommodation has certainly come into its own as we can sit on our terrace looking over the lake and onto the mountains of Tanzania and Mozambique. Photographs just don’t do it justice. If one ever get’s the chance I would highly recommend this as a must see when visiting this continent.

With so much time on hands today I have given Betsy the once over and pleased to report that all seems well. She realty is a tough old bird and is being driven in 4-wheel drive constantly here due to the poor roads and hill climbs to and from the hotel to the village.

Unfortunately for Martin he will not be able to scuba dive here as the instructors are all away on a jolly and wont return in time for us. Never mind apparently, we are going to feed the fish eagles on the lake tomorrow. On a plus side though he will avoid picking up Bilharzia which is prevalent in the lake but apparently further South. I am immune as I’m taking Larium. There had to be a bonus for me in there somewhere.

For the rest of today, more lying around at the lake bar, onto to watch the rugby at another lake bar and then back for dinner. Requested beef but more likely to have to settle for chicken, again.

Our fully stocked beach bar

23/02/18

A quick recap on last night. The hotel was fine but very humid, although my room had air conditioning. Lovely. It felt like the first night we had really started to relax. We had dinner in small hotel on the lake, with of course another new buddy, and then returned to the hotel for a few whiskeys, game of checkers (I won 😊) and then a long look at the journey still to covered. It ended up being a late one but well deserved.

A late start this morning and heading for Nkhata Bay, halfway down the lake opposite the Tanzanian and Mozambique border.

The only traffic light in town.

Lunch was at the Soul Kitchen in Mzuzu, Malawi’s 3^rd biggest city where Martin found a steak restaurant and he ploughed into a large T bone. He is one very happy customer.

A short drive on to Nkharta Bay and staying at a beautiful little hotel, Njaya Lodge, situated directly onto the lake. Martin was recommended this by a friend who stayed here 18 years ago. Still lovely.

We have now covered 1300 miles and we are taking a few days off. The lake is absolutely stunning with clear warm water perfect for swimming and fishing. Martin’s up for a bit of scuba but I think I will just take it nice and slow tomorrow or take a boat out. We will just have to wait and see.

22/02/18

Goodbye Tanzania. After an early start we headed for the border which meant about 300 miles to be covered today. A long way but the thought of reaching the lake spurred us on.

I must confess that roads here in Tanzania are comparable on the whole to those at home, barring the odd moment when there aren’t any roads to drive on and so for those thinking of what hardy travellers we are, I’m sorry to disappoint. Hard work though never the less. The toilet facilities on route are not what you would expect back home and even for 2 such undaunted travellers (blokes) they can still be a challenge.

I am also delighted to say that Betsy and I were the recipients of our 2^nd parking ticket today, but unlike previously the issuing officer our issuing officer was not prepared to have his photograph taken. Miserable git.

Oh, here is one for Jan and Pete. EU funding has even reached the deepest parts of this continent with a little project in the sleepy village of Kisinga. Hahahahahahahahaha

Reaching the border just after lunch was quite frankly a not too bad experience. Paper work all to hand and a total of 2 hours in and out. Yeah.

The roads and road stops in Malawi are worse than we have experienced to date but nothing stops the intrepid duo and Betsy!!!!!!!!

Dinner was taken by the lake which surpassed our expectations with fabulous views of the Tanzanian mountains across the lake. We even had the benefit of a lightening storm across the waters.

The hotel, albeit basic, has 2 great rooms with air con, so we should both sleep tight tonight. Arrrrr.

Finally, and on a personal note Martin and I would like to congratulate his uncle Pete and Aunty Sarah on their wedding today and we wish them all the

21—02-18

A quick recap on last night. The hotel couldn’t show the Chelsea Barca game, so Martin went to bed relatively early. I though got a lift from someone who knows who and headed to a local hostelry where the game was being shown. Cracking result and an enjoyable night especially as I was the only gay in the village so to speak. Late to bed.

Our wonderful little hotel offered a great night’s sleep but performed appallingly for breakfast. Tea with hot milk, and noodles. Martin wasn’t entirely put off and partook in some the delicacies, I can’t say he was impressed though, which bodes well for the day.

After an early start we have made amazing progress and arrived in Dodoma at lunchtime. We headed for the best hotel next to the presidents’ office for steak sandwiches. Yum. Good internet and relaxing lounge. Perfect for an hour or two.

We made excellent progress again in the afternoon to make our intended destination, Iringa, and along the way again encompassed some fantastic views, it is becoming much more lush as we head South; experienced the most fantastic winding roads with hardly anyone else on them (Clarkson eat your heart out); encompassed out first torrential down pour and saw the graphic side of this amazing country where a carcus is left on the road to be eaten by anything that fancies a go. Thought about carving a little bit off for Martin tomorrow just in case we run low on supplies 😊😊

Oh yes also got my first speeding ticket in the capital for doing 60 in a 30 mph zone. V proud and paid my fine with a big smile on my face.

On arrival in Iringa I decided to have the tyres rotated, don’t ask me why but I think I read it somewhere, and pulled up at a local garage. After 20 minutes of chaos including finding the wheel nut remover doesn’t fit the locking wheel nut, all very technical I know, we managed to have the tyres rotated and inflated to the correct pressure. To our shock we were informed that we have been driving with a large screw in the front right. Yikes. All sorted now I hope.

Tomorrow I am hoping will be our last day in Tanzania, and then we are over to Milawi to stay along the lake.